Grife coloca modelos negros como primitivos e reforça ideias racistas

A grife de luxo italiana, Marni, divulgou uma campanha na última sexta-feira (24) por e-mail e pelo perfil oficial no Instagram, em que foi apontada por reproduzir esterótipos racistas ligados à cultura negra, reforçando erroneamente uma relação de primitividade e colonização de corpos pretos.  As fotos, que aconteceram em uma praia em Salvador, tinham modelos negros retintos, usando biquínis e sungas e acompanhados de expressões como “clima de selva”, “amuleto tribal” e “descalço na selva”.

A produção da campanha também contou com elementos, que nem eram da marca, para reforçar o clima rústico e primitivo, como chapéu e outros acessórios. O Diet Prada, que vem jogando luz em opressões disseminadas por grandes marcas do segmento da moda, foi um dos perfis que denunciou o racismo cometido pela marca. “Esses estereótipos são apenas algumas das maneiras pelas quais a instituição da supremacia branca oprimiu, desumanizou e privou os negros de seus direitos humanos”, escreveram em uma publicação.

View this post on Instagram

On Friday, Italian brand @Marni , known for its quirky, irreverent take on luxury fashion, sent out an e-mail blast for their new SS20 campaign. In the series of images, which were also simultaneously posted on Instagram, Black models are juxtaposed with some choice words evoking the season’s mood–“jungle mood,” “tribal amulet,” and “barefoot in the jungle” among others. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ You might remember H&M’s “Coolest Monkey In The Jungle” hoodie from 2018, which was photographed on a young black boy, and recalled a legacy of simianized representations of Black people as apes and monkeys. Ditto Prada’s “Otto” keychains which caused a scandal later that same year and in the months prior, an incident with Gucci’s blackface balaclava. It was a rough year for fashion brands, but it hasn’t stopped. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Marni’s new campaign is more nuanced, but no less problematic. With the models styled in a smorgasbord of ethnic accessories like Bayong wood necklaces from the Philippines, Caribbean woven grass hats, and other non-descript wooden jewelry (none of which are Marni), the images begin alluding to racist, colonial stereotypes of Black people as primitive, uncivilized, and unmodern people. One model is even painted in clay, evoking tribal bodypaint. In another image that’s since been deleted from the brand’s Instagram account, a link of chains near the model’s feet resulted in some terrible shackle-like optics. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ It becomes a more layered conversation though, when you discover the photographer Edgar Azevedo is Afro-Brazilian. Meanwhile Giovanni Bianco, the art director, is Brazilian-Italian. Was something lost in translation? More context provided by the brand to explain the vision and collaboration with the photographer could have helped in this situation, but needless to say, the damage was done when the marketing team decided on those words. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ These stereotypes are just some of the ways the institution of white supremacy has oppressed, dehumanized, and deprived Black people of their human rights. For yet another fashion brand to reflect these tropes further proves the work that needs to be done to dismantle the pervasive racism throughout the world.

A post shared by Diet Prada ™ (@diet_prada) on Jul 28, 2020 at 9:07am PDT

Além das frases, dois modelos chegaram a ser pintados com uma espécie de argila, outro sobreposto por uma bolsa que leva o nome da marca e tem como adereço cordas, semelhantes às usadas para chicotear negros escravizados. Uma terceira foto ainda apresentava um modelos com os pés próximos a uma corrente, remetendo aos grilhões usadas no período da escravidão. “Esse é o pior exemplo de representação de corpos negros através do olhar branco. Você deviam se envergonhar!”, questionou um perfil na publicação no Instagram.

Nesta quarta-feira (29), a marca se posicionou sobre a campanha, que contou com o fotógrafo Edgar Azevedo e a direção de arte de Giovanni Bianco, ambos brasileiros, pelo Instagram. No comunicado, a grife se desculpa e aponta que a campanha teve um impacto oposto. “Pedimos desculpas pelo dano e ofensa que nossa última campanha causou. O que se pretendia ser uma campanha que celebrava a beleza da cultura afro-brasileira sob a perspectiva do fotógrafo brasileiro Edgard Azevedo concretizou-se tendo o impacto oposto. Nossas fiscalizações ao longo do processo de revisão são inaceitáveis ​​- e, por isso, lamentamos muito”, apontaram. Todas as fotos da campanha foram deletas das redes sociais Marni.

View this post on Instagram

At Marni, we are deeply apologetic for the harm and offense that our latest campaign has caused. What was intended to be a campaign that celebrated the beauty of the Afro-Brazilian culture through the perspective of Brazilian photographer Edgard Azevedo came to fruition having had the opposite impact. Our oversights across the review process are unacceptable – and for that, we are incredibly sorry. The team at Marni is passionately committed to championing inclusivity and celebrating the beauty of diverse cultures throughout the world. As we endeavor to create a more equitable world, through fashion and shared humanity, we sincerely regret that our efforts caused further pain. We have immediately removed these images and we are redoubling our efforts to ensure our processes are carried out with thoughtfulness and intentionality through a strong equity lens. Our entire staff is committed to using this moment as an opportunity to leverage our platform to support and empower more voices and creators of color whose talent and insights are instrumental in creating a more inclusive and diverse fashion industry.

A post shared by Marni (@marni) on Jul 29, 2020 at 5:06pm PDT

Todas as mulheres podem (e devem) assumir postura antirracista:

• Racismo